The alternative to a guided tour, I chose to rock up in Tam Coc via Ninh Binh as a way to break up my journey from Laos to Hanoi. And as a chance to acclimatise to Vietnam in a smaller place before heading to the hectic capital. Hiring a bicycle from my hotel, I peddled along the street working up the courage to turn left at the end – onto the main road through the town. Chickening out and pushing my bike across the road I got back on when a Vietnamese girl cycled past me – I had the ingenious plan of following her and copying her movements in and out of traffic while I learnt the rules of the road (which seem to be ‘there are no rules’). I used this tactic, following one person after another, to survive chaotic Highway 1 and reach the turn off for Tam Coc. A few hundred metres down the road I pulled up to the ticket office and bought my entrance and boat ride tickets. After cycling to the parking area I headed to the dock where a man inspected my ticket then led me to a boat. My rower was a 17 year old schoolgirl. She had the common curious nature of the Vietnamese and wanted to know all about me. In return I asked about her and found this exchange a pleasant start to the journey. In mere minutes, the view turned into this: From then on the stunning karst rocks towered majestically over us as we meandered along the river, occasionally giving way to a bigger patch of the rice paddies that formed the river bank. After the final cave, where your boat will pause before heading back, the pressure to buy starts – first you’re accosted by women selling drinks and fruit, saying no merely changes their question to ‘buy one for your rower’. Then on the way back you’ll be shown t-shirts or embroidery that’s kept in the boat for – you guessed it – selling to tourists. Finally it’s very likely you’ll be asked explicitly for a tip. I wasn’t expecting this direct request at all and found it quite awkward. A few people I’ve spoken to have said the same and the return leg soured the atmosphere of an otherwise great morning. Even with this I did enjoy it and would recommend the river trip. I just wish I’d been more prepared for the touting, especially being so new to the country and typical prices. This aspect really shouldn’t put you off but it’s an example of where it helps to know before you go!