Despite the rapid industrialization going on in Vietnam today, Can Tho has maintained its provincial environment and tradtional lifestyle with its rich and natural landscape, and what we all seem to look forward to when we visit a place aside from the former, local food. In Can Tho, one dish stands out from all the rest not only because of its distinguished taste, but perhaps more so because of the story behind it: Thach Sung Chat Luoi. Literally meaning “Gecko Clicks Tongue,” who wouldn't want to try out this myteriously interesting meal?

Chi Toi (meaning My Elder Sister) Restaurant is the highly recommended place for this anticipated delicacy, with an area filled with lush trees, ponds and bamboo huts unlike the common modern eating places today, the restaurant sets an even more conducive atmosphere for dining and even relaxation.

Thach Sung Char Luoi is served in a cracked earthenware pot, staying true to the legend behind it:

Thach Sung and his wife were a very poor couple. They were so poor that aside from the little money they saved up, their most precious possession was a cracked eathenware pot wherein they cooked their daily meals. But because of their frugality and craftiness, what little thay had grew overtime and in fact became of high value.

One day, Thach Sung accidentally came across an omen predicting heavy rains, flooding, farmers losing their crops and people going hungry within the year. To be on the safe side, the couple decided to sell their accumulated “wealth” and store up on rice. And as the omen predicted, heavy rains came and flooded the ricefields, destroying all the crops and leaving everyone with nothing to eat. Taking advantage of the situation, Thach Sung sold his stored rice at a ridiculous price, accumulating wealth, elevated social status, and a terrible reputation as a loan shark.

One day, he made a bet with the king's brother-in-law Vuong that he was the richer one. The deal would be to compare all their possessions and whoever won will take the other's entire wealth. At first, Thach Sung seemed to be on the lead with more treasures to show than the king's kin. But Vuong wasn't about to be beaten. Knowing Thach Sung's humble beginnings, he caught up fast by bringing out a cracked earthenware pot which he knew was once the former's most valuable possession and forgotten, even threw away when he became rich.

Thach Sung, in shock upon seeing his former treasure, was left speechless and couldn't say or do anything else but just sputter and click his tongue until he died. He then transformed into a gecko in which he did nothing but click his tongue for the rest of his animal life in regret of letting go of his most valuable possession which made him wealthy in the first place. Obviously, Vuong won the competition.

Today, when Vietnamese people hear the sound of a clicking tongue, what comes to their mind is a gecko and an ungrateful person who didn't know how to look back and appreciate or be thankful for where he came from.

Thach Sung Chat Luoi is a mixture of crackling, fish sauce, green onion and red chili. It's the right combination of salty and sweet in one pot. What makes the dish different and perhaps special is the accompanying “pancake,” which is in fact burned rice that is usually stuck at the bottom of the cooker when it is overdone. But if you think this is accidental, the rice is burned purposely for the meal. The rice is first cooked normally. It is then spread thinly across the bottom of a large frying pan to form a layer and cooked carefully until its surface turns light yellow and you can smell the scent of burned rice. The uniqueness of the dish doesn't stop there. Thach Sung Chat Luoi has to be eaten by hand.

More than the beautiful scenery perhaps, the essence of visiting Can Tho is experiencing Thach Sung Chat Luoi in all its richness in both taste and history.